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Saturday, 14 November 2020

Boot -floor rails

 14 November 2020

After seeing other floor rails I decided to look around as to whether I could do it myself.

Found the following 'rub rail' section on eBay, from alum-droitwich. Various lengths can be ordered. Described as Aluminium Herzim Rub rail with PVC insert, 1 inch wide.

The rail is a highly polished aluminium extrusion, 25mm wide and 5mm high with a PVC rubber insert that when in place makes the rail 7mm high. The rail came with a white protective cover that is easily removed.

Measured up and ordered 6 metres of rail. Actually only needed 5 metres but had 3 x 2metre lengths just in case of error. Rail was delivered taped to a thick piece of wood and well packaged. Each rail for the  floor and including the back of the seat needs about 950mm each.

Fixing it was pretty straight forward.

Drilled and countersunk 4 holes on the floor rails and 2 on the back rails. Just need to get the holes central in the extrusion and deep enough to take the screw head. Used 3.5mm diameter x 20mm long S/S Posi drive countersunk fully threaded chipboard woodscrews.

Spaced rails at 180mm apart, centre to centre. Started with the centre rail and worked outwards both sides.

Used masking tape initially to mark out the rail positions as the length of the floor rails varies. Did need to remove the carpet press stud fastenings on the floor as the carpet on mine was not held centrally. The made sure the carpet was central prior to fixing rails. Ran length of rails between the floor and back mat edging tape. Cut the rails, polished the cut ends, and screwed to floor and back. Used a 155mm length of wood as a spacer between the rails as I went along fastening them down. No need to drill the floor as screws made their own holes.

Found it best to heat up the PVC insert with a hair dryer and press in with thumbs. Still got sore thumbs!

Here is the finished job.

Total cost was £80 for delivered rub rail plus the screws and I do have a metre of rail left over! 

Monday, 8 June 2020

Now a Bum lift!

7th June 2020

Added 15mm chrome stripe, same material as front, to rear bumper. Side chrome aligned with top line of side decal and top of wrap around rubber bumper then continued across bumper to the other side.
Also added a rubber bumper protector to the top of the bumper.

All in all it looks ...different...time will tell.

Tuesday, 28 April 2020

Face Lift!

28 April 2020

Decided to try and change the front of my rubber bumper by adding a finer mesh grille, chrome strip, moving number plate to bumper and some glossy clear varnish!

Here is the result, like it or lump least it is different! Let's hope there is still plenty of cooling air for the radiator/oil cooler!

Overall effect

Aluminium mesh grille - 3.5 a 5mm mesh - slid behind bumper bracket plate and secured with a single new bracket. 

Moved number plate to bumper and added grille to cover air intakes usually masked by number plate. Brackets fastened to number plate bracket mounting holes on rear of bumper. Number plate screwed directly to rubber bumper.

Friday, 7 February 2020

Sunday, 29 December 2019

A Quick Run Out

29 Dec 2019

Today had a short drive to see if all was well after having the clutch stuck in the engaged position due to being left undriven for a few weeks! 

Cured by engaging fourth gear, foot on the brake and clutch pedal and engaging the starter motor to free it. This method worked fine.

A couple of  pics before going back under cover. Must run more often!

Wednesday, 23 October 2019

Side indicator repeaters

October 2019
Always thought the front turn indicator lights are a bit buried in the rubber bumper and not very visible from the side direction. Did not want to go with the American MGB market version as in my mind they look a bit large.
So decided to look at adding some additional side indicators to the bumper.
After much searching I found these on eBay and as they were only cheap decided to send for them to see how they looked.

As they looked pretty suitable when offered up to the bumper I set about adding them.

Modified the wiring from the existing indicators each side by adding a 4 way connector to enable a feed for the extra provide a feed for the new lights.
My wiring was like this below. Then fed the new lights wires, one into each of the separate 4 way black connector to provide live and earth connections.

Drilled a 12mm hole in the bumper for the wires to pass through and smaller, 2mm, holes for the two attachment screws.
There was an existing hole in the lower scuttle nearby to pass the wires into the wheel arch. Opened this out to 15mm round and fitted a rubber grommet to protect the wires passing through the hole.

Positioned the new lights close to the end of the bumper and lower than mid bumper to avoid a raised rib inside the bumper.

In my mind they look just the job and they work fine.

The extra electrical load does not affect the flashing speed of the indicators.
Flashing speed is too fast, me thinks, but the flasher unit, not in usual place just under the dash but high up behind the dash! Can't reach it however I try? Any clues?

Thursday, 17 October 2019

Walnut dash

17th October 2019

Just added a stick on walnut dash from the 'Walnut Dash Company' via Ebay. I had fitted one to my previous MGB GT so I know they can look pretty good.

This one looks good too?  Took about 2 hours in total to fit including precleaning the dash with white spirit. 

Only issues I had were: -

1.  To get the panel over the choke cable handle was a very tight fit. Had to force it over but caused a slight amount of damage to the panel. Not that you would notice now fitted. Would have been better to remove the inner cable. But doing that has its own issues!

2. The small rectangular seat belt warning light cover would not come fully off no matter how hard I tried. Moved it out just enough to clear the two pegs. The hand brake warning cover did come off after a bit of a struggle. Solution was to cut the panels large pre-cut hole into a slot  at the bottom for the seat belt warning light body and slide the panel carefully behind it.

Other than that it was fairly straight forward but you only get one chance to get each panel lined up before pressing in place!

Here are a few pics of the finished dash.

 The yellow on the glovebox lid is a reflection of a steering lock in the passenger footwell! 

Have to remove gear lever gaiter before fitting

Started the longest piece, that goes over the instruments, by first aligning on the 4 small warning lights surrounding the oil pressure gauge. Once this was done the rest of the panel aligned with all other instrument holes. 

Boot -floor rails

  14 November 2020 After seeing other floor rails I decided to look around as to whether I could do it myself. Found the following 'rub ...